Cycling Northeast Taiwan, part 2: the yangmingshan national park loop
Yangmingshan National Park is Taiwan’s only park that has both volcanic geography and hotsprings, and is home to the country’s tallest dormant volcano called Qixing (Seven Star) Mountain. The park is known for its cherry blossoms and magnificent mountain scenery, and a multitude of challenging climbs for cyclists.
This is the second and final installment of our northeast Taiwan tour report, covering Shifen to Badouzi and the Yangminshan National Park loop. Head back to Cycling Northeast Taiwan Part 1: Jiaoxi, Shifen and Toucheng if you missed the first part of the journey.
Yangmingshan National Park
Tell any cyclist you’re heading to Taiwan, their immediate point of reference is the Taiwan KOM Challenge at Wuling Mountain, one of the toughest cycling races in the world, climbing nearly 3,500m over 105 kilometers. But this route required more time owing to its location further south, no matter how tempting it was to see Wuling’s equally stunning scenery. For this trip, we opted for a different mountain range to climb (more like Eka wanted to do it) closer to Taipei. Yangmingshan National Park would satisfy Eka’s itch for some elevation, while giving great views all around.
One of the nine national parks in Taiwan, Yangmingshan National Park is also a hiking paradise. Funny enough, despite Shan translating to ‘mountain’ in Chinese, you won’t actually find a mountain there called Yangming Mountain. Instead, Yangmingshan National Park actually sits within another mountain range that has several peaks, namely Mt. Datun, Mt. Qixing, and Mt. Shamao, while there are other peaks that surround it as well. Previously it was known as Caoshan or Grass Mountain during the Japanese Occupation, a reference to the tall silvergrass that grew after fires were set to deter would-be thieves of the sulfur mines there. It was only renamed Yangmingshan after World War II when the government built a park there.
For cyclists, the park is a highly accessible day ride from Taipei. From the city, the Yangmingshan loop can be done in several different ways, but you would essentially have done a pretty decent ride and still be back by teatime/dinnertime or even lunchtime depending on your fitness. But since we were on our tour of the Taiwan National Scenic Area, we would be coming from further east and a little bit down south. That meant we had the opportunity to spend a night along the eastern coastline before riding up to Yangmingshan National Park. From Shifen we opted to head to the seaside town of Badouzi, which would be the starting point for our Yangmingshan loop as the end to our tour.
STAGE 3: SHIFEN to badouzi
Start Shifen
Finish Badouzi
Distance 26km
Climbing 220m
Grade Easy/Medium
After a night of fairly restful sleep, we tucked into a breakfast of toast at our homestay before packing up for the day’s journey. Our first stop would be Shifen Waterfall, famed for its beautiful cascading falls set within a lovely green area right outside the town center and only 2km away from the Shifen train station. Called the Little Niagara of Taiwan, Shifen Waterfall was named after the ten original families that developed the area in Pingxi District, whose name comes from Pingxi Township itself, the most famous town to release the iconic sky lanterns in the new year. Pingxi District has dozens of waterfalls, but Shifen Waterfall is indeed the most breathtaking of them all.
From Shifen town the waterfall has several entrypoints, all requiring a bit of a walk to the falls itself, including a hanging bridge crossing. There was no bike parking that we could spot, so a bike lock will be your only security as you take the short riverside trek. Along the way you’ll get views of the Keelung River that form the falls themselves, as well as a train crossing the tracks if you’re passing at the right time. The falls are as magnificent as their North American namesake, and are considered one of the most beautiful in all of Taiwan. If you’re there in the summer, the sun shines on the mist created by the cascading waters, and you will know why the deep pool below the falls is called “Rainbow Pool”.
After taking in the falls and having a small lunch of grilled snacks there, we were soon on our way. The journey started with a small climb out of Shifen town, to cross the Xueshan Range as we head northwest to Nuannuan District. After reaching the highest point of elevation on our route we enjoyed a long and satisfying downhill stretch, whizzing past a long line of cars heading in the same direction. It was a Sunday after all, which explained the crowd of people at Shifen Waterfall that morning, and there were many people out and about visiting Shifen Town as well.
At the end of the descent we took a right turn at Zhongxinglun to head northeast towards the direction of the eastern coastline. The route followed the meandering Keelung River until the 20km mark, always with views of misty mountains. The remaining journey was a mixture of gentle rolling terrain along roads wet from the misty overcast weather, as well as hilly terrain through the countryside as is the norm that we have expected from cycle touring in Taiwan. Day three was meant to be a rest day and an extremely easy ride, but there was a fair bit of elevation over the short journey, and there were the occasional surprise double digit gradients as we rode along - even beyond 20%.
By early evening we’d reached Badouzi, home to Badouzi Fishing Port first established in 1975, the largest fishing port in northern Taiwan. The village next to the port is a center for processing a huge variety of marine harvests, but we take a right turn and ride along the coast towards our accommodation Fish Home 15. Situated along the coastline overlooking Fanzi-ao Bay, we arrived at the location to a misty view of the waves crashing onto Fanzi-ao Cape where Elephant Arch is located. As the sun set we hurriedly checked in and walked to the nearest restaurant for an early dinner of beef noodle soup, the nearest one to our place of stay.
The beef was juicy and tender, the noodles springy and the broth rich and hearty, and we did not regret our decision not to travel further for some local seafood instead. After more climbing than we expected on what was supposed to be a rest day, we’d reached the ‘perpetually hungry’ state of touring after only three days. As we walked back after dinner, the lights of the lamps along the coastal highway and the fishing boats made a wonderful nighttime scene that we could also enjoy from our respective rooms. A hot bath ensured a great end to the night, in preparation of the big day of climbing the next day.
STAGE 4: badouzi to yangmingshan
Start Badouzi
Finish Yangmingshan
Distance 60km
Climbing 1,100m
Grade Difficult
Breakfast of toast and Taiwanese tea greeted us on the morning of the fourth day, eaten from the balcony of Fish Home 15 with a view of the sea. I’d grappled hard with whether or not I should join the final two stages of the tour, and had come to the decision that I would take the train to Taipei instead of attempting to ride up to Yangmingshan National Park. On fresh legs I would have joined the ride in a heartbeat, but my energy reserves had not yet recovered from my vomiting and purging episode the night after stage one despite two full nights of restful sleep. Eka woke up to a mixed feeling of anticipation and trepidation, knowing what awaited him on the ride up to the peaks of Yangmingshan. Leaving behind the cozy seaside hotel in Badouzi after breakfast, he set off into the early morning seaside mist, eager to explore the sights that lay ahead.
He would be making his way northwest to a Keelung meeting point with Fiona, who had spent the night at a hostel in a different location. The two of them would ride together for the remaining stages, as Maya and Treas would also be taking the train back to the city. Once packed we headed in the opposite direction Eka rode off an hour earlier, heading southeast to loop past Badouzi Cape towards the Ruifang train station, which would allow us to board the train to Taipei with our bikes. By the time we reached Wanhua station in Taipei, a flurry of messages from Eka and Fiona had convinced us to abandon our plan to spend an extra night in the capital, but thankfully we had time to have a leisurely late lunch and tea at Cho Cafe before rendezvousing with them at Yangmingshan National Park for the night. With our bikes stored safely back at Cho Hotel, we repacked our backpacks before calling for an Uber, since it was only a 20km+ distance to the resort.
Meanwhile, Eka’s first stop was Changtanli Harbor, where he paused to soak in the breathtaking seaside views. The harbor bustled with life as fishing boats bobbed gently in the water, accompanied by a quaint little lighthouse that added a touch of charm to the scene. He soon pressed on to the Keelung Maritime Plaza, where battleships were docked nearby in a show of naval defensive power. Fiona would join him after a quick breakfast at the nearby McDonald’s by the harbour.
It was here that the bright and sunny morning changed to one covered in fine sea mist. The plan to visit the Keelung Lighthouse fell short due to a maintenance closure, but perched atop the same hill was the Baimiweng Fort, constructed around 300 years ago during the Spanish and Dutch Colonial periods. Once occupied by the French Third Republic army during the Sino-French War, it was remodeled by the Japanese government during the occupation. It safeguards the Keelung Harbor with gun emplacements facing the eastern shore, and has been a vital military base since the Qing Dynasty.
The ascent proved to be a challenge, but as Eka and Fiona labored up the steep slopes, they were greeted by the encouraging cheers of local hikers - chants of "chaiyo" propelling them forward. At the summit, they were rewarded with a panoramic view but an unexpected sight emerged with it - a massive power plant that stood juxtaposed against the natural beauty. The gigantic Xiehe gas turbine power plant, the only fully oil-fired power plant in all of Taiwan, looms over the seaside cliffs, a reminder of the harmonious coexistence of progress and nature. Today the area is a popular sightseeing spot thanks to its magnificent views of the ocean, particularly during summer days and nights.
Their next destination was the Fairy Cave Temple in the mountain on the other side of the bay, a natural place of refuge for local fishermen when the weather turned foul, that eventually became a place of worship. This 80-meter marine cave has gone by various names throughout the years as it was carved out by erosion over the past few centuries, and is entirely constructed within an actual sea cave. A gigantic sculpture of Buddha welcomes you at the cave mouth, while there are carvings of Buddha on the wall inside and calligraphy carving that dates back to the Qing Dynasty.
From there, Eka and Fiona’s route to Yehliu was a symphony of natural wonders, with coastal nature reserves lining the path. To their left, the windswept hills displayed their lush greenery, while on their right, the majestic Pacific Ocean offered a refreshing breeze that invigorated their senses. Eka and Fiona enjoyed the natural coastal scenery all along the way especially around the Yehliu Geopark area, a 1.7-meter-long cape in Wanli District which was approximately the halfway mark for the day. Famed for the hoodoo stone formations - also known as fairy chimneys - the cape was formed by geological forces pushing Datun Mountain into the sea, while erosion throughout the years carved hoodoo stones into the various rock formations that cover the cape’s surface.
Soon in need of sustenance, they stumbled upon Elisa Cafe, a quaint establishment nestled amidst the picturesque landscape. The little seaside coffee shop was also home to many well fed feline occupants, who in addition to the distant view of the Yehliu geological formations made it a tempting place to linger after lunch. They pushed on however, considering the big climb would only be in the last third of the day’s route. Their next stop was the Yehliu Geopark, to walk among the natural sculptures that were carved by years of unrelenting waves.
To shore up their energy reserves for the remainder of the journey, Eka and Fiona made their way to Jinbaoli Old Street in Jinshan, where they feasted on a lunch of scallion pancakes and fried rice, for the upcoming challenge that lay ahead. Leaving Jinshan, they followed provincial Route 2, venturing up the eastern side of the Yangmingshan mountain range - which just so happened to be the more arduous climb to the top. As the elevation steadily increased, the landscape transformed before their eyes. Dense forests gave way to gentle slopes adorned with grassy meadows, painting a serene backdrop for the relentless ascent, while covered in mist. There was even a beautiful field of white lilies framing the mountains where they stopped for a few pictures.
As they stopped to enjoy the breathtaking panorama of majestic peaks enshrouded in clouds and mist enveloping them, plumes of steam rose from numerous fumaroles dotting the mountains, adding an otherworldly touch to the already mesmerizing scene. The last few kilometers tested their endurance as the gradient steepened to a staggering 20%. Determined, they pushed their bicycles until the peak, arriving right before sunset despite the slow trek uphill, greeted by a magnificent vista that stretched as far as the eye could see. Although it was a cloudy day, a soft light bathed the landscape with a surreal ambiance.
As darkness encroached, Eka and Fiona reluctantly left the peaks behind, embracing the thrill of the hairpin filled descent. Careening down tight bends, they enjoyed the surge of exhilaration and the chill from the mountain winds, arriving at the Yanmin Hot Spring Resort extremely exhausted but glad that they made the journey up the mountain. Maya, Treas and myself arrived at the hotel soon enough, having jumped in an Uber in time for the rush hour traffic congestion that made the shorter Uber journey feel longer than it should have been. A grand feast was brought to our table not long after our arrival, and we all dug into dinner like a herd of starved animals. It was a fitting celebratory dinner before retiring to our villa for a hot spring bath and calling it a night.
STAGE 5: yangmingshan to taipei
Start Yangmingshan
Finish Taipei
Distance 45km
Climbing 150m
Grade Easy/Moderate
As a resort that regularly hosts both domestic and international tourists, breakfast was a buffet affair a short walk away from our villa. Eka and Fiona then set out ahead of Maya, Treas and myself since we would be hailing another Uber to the Yangmingshan National Park to see the spring colours that were already in bloom there. The traffic congestion told us cycling there was still the best option during the Yangmingshan Flower Festival, which coincided with our weekend there. While stuck in the car we passed by a stretch of cherry blossom trees in full bloom that we could only enjoy through the tinted windows of the vehicle, while Eka and Fiona had the opportunity to stop and take as many photos as they wanted.
The park itself has a range of different flowers and plants that grow around the mountainside, but the most impressive cherry blossoms could have been the row of dazzling blooms we passed along the road instead. Still, we had a lovely morning wandering around the many cobblestone walking trails and moss covered steps of the park. It was crowded owing to the festival and the spring season, but everyone was spread out over the massive park and we never really felt overwhelmed by the presence of other tourists. It was a small price to pay to catch the last of the cherry blossoms for 2023, as temperatures were already heating up even up in the mountains.
After a small snack at the park Eka and Fiona pushed off for Taipei, while we hailed another Uber to take us to Damsui, our lunch meeting point for the final day. Our uber ride was pretty uneventful save for some views of the Yangmingshan mountainside area in between dozing off during the drive, and some glimpses of the plumes from the geothermal vents in the mountainside. It was a surreal landscape to be fair, and I couldn’t help but feel a pang of regret for missing the day’s ride back into the capital city.
For Eka and Fiona however, the ride down was anything but boring. As usual, Eka had plotted a route on Komoot that would take them down a descent that didn’t quite follow the regular winding road. In just a few minutes of leaving the flower park, the descending tarmac quickly turned into a hiking path that naturally went completely off any form of paved roads. Undeterred, Eka and Fiona decided to enjoy a bit of hike-a-bike as they navigated their way down the trail, a trek that took them through agricultural villages along the slopes of the mountain.
They picked their way gingerly, one foot on the pedal half the time while the other foot pushed along on the ground, and they mostly held this half-walk half-pedal stance while descending through the agricultural paths. When the track were less steep, they were at least able to enjoy a bit of gravel biking as they rode their bikes through what felt like many backyards turned farmstead. When looking at their route going down Yangmingshan, it appeared to be a straight line going down the mountain rather than the regular winding route that most cyclists take.
The agricultural path later popped them back on normal roads at the foothills of Yangmingshan, and they followed Daye Road into the urban areas of Taipei, passing by the Beitou Hot Spring Museum and the old Xinbeitou station. After getting their urban bearings, they proceeded to the bike paths along the Keelung River which eventually flowed into the Tamsui river bike path. Since the paths all lead to Tamsui, finding a lunch spot by the Tamsui riverside was the natural choice for our group.
Reuniting with Maya, Treas and myself riverside, a quick snack of scallion pancake became necessary as we hunted for a lunch spot, while Eka and Fiona topped it off with an obscenely tall ice cream cone each. We settled on lunch at a cafe along the promenade, an awesome combination of orders for burgers and pasta, which we devoured with a view of the river right outside the window. After lunch, Eka and Fiona completed the tour by riding back to our original starting point at Cho Hotel, five days prior. On their way back, Eka had a ride down memory lane, passing through familiar riverside areas that we visited together back in 2017.
If you missed the first part of this tour, head back to Cycling Northeast Taiwan Part 1: Jiaoxi, Shifen and Toucheng to start from the beginning of the journey.
If you liked this tour write up, do give these other international tours a read too:
Cycling Spain’s Andalucia 2017
Cycling Taiwan’s East Rift Valley, Jiufen and Houtong 2019
Cycling Seoul to Busan, South Korea 2019
Cycling Shikoku, Japan 2.0 2022
We also have a number of domestic tours if you’re looking for ideas to travel in Malaysia:
Cycling Malaysia’s West Coast from Klang to Pangkor Island
