Cycling Busan to Seoul, South Korea - Part 3
Our journey from Busan to Seoul continued from Suanbo down to Yeoju, along the river to Yangpyeong and then to the capital city of Seoul.
This is a continuation from Cycling Busan to Seoul, South Korea - Part 2
STAGE 6: SUANBO TO YEOJU
Start Suanbo
Finish Yeoju
Distance 87km
Climbing 638m
Grade Easy/Moderate
After a night of soaking in the hot tub and stuffing ourselves with a mouthwatering dinner of pheasant, the Folding Tales crew had finally come to the easier part of our South Korea tour. But while Suanbo to Yeoju was a bit of a recovery ride that was mostly flat in terms of terrain, we still had to get through some decent short climbs (at the start of the ride, thank goodness for that) and the total distance would still stretch nearly 90km.
The day began pleasantly enough, with a downhill spin from Hotel Screen that lasted about 20km, flanked on either side by the most splendid views of autumn colours. Two brief climbs along the way gave us a nice challenge in between the freewheeling, and with the exception of a short stretch along a busy highway with a road shoulder barely a foot wide, it was a nice way to start the ride indeed. We peeled off not too long after a harrowing ten minutes, and found our way on the bike lane once again, though the road surface was a bit bumpier on this particular day.
Riding along the Namhan River, by the 25km mark we’d come to Chungju, to make a pitstop at the seven-story stone Jungang Pagoda, said to be the exact center of the country. Estimated to have been built during the reign of King Wonseong in the 8th century, it is believed to have been part of a larger temple complex. 20km later we peeled off for a lunch of spicy seafood noodles and rice with chicken katsu, and then enjoyed yet another stunning sunset along the river, 20km further in Wonju.
We rode the remaining 20km in the dark, though we had finally reached the smoothly paved bike lanes due to our proximity to the city. Hotel J was not too far from the bike lane, and easily found after crossing several traffic lights. The relative peace of the quiet bike paths earlier in the day was a stark contrast to the traffic whizzing past, reminding us that it would not be too long before our journey came to an end in bustling Seoul. We had a lovely dinner of spicy octopus and took care of some dirty laundry before tucking in for the night.
Silleuksa Temple
Besides being a major centre of contemporary South Korean ceramics, Yeoju is also home to one of the only riverside temples in all of Korea - which was about 1km away from our hotel. We missed the chance to reach Silleuksa Temple by sunset, but even without the backdrop of a psychedelic evening sky the temple is particularly pretty in the autumn, when the zelkova, juniper and ginkgo trees provide a vibrant contrast against the striking colours of the temple itself. A 500-year-old aromatic juniper tree and a 600-year-old ginkgo tree can be found on the temple grounds, giving hints to its age, but there are many theories, including one that Silleuksa was actually founded in circa 580 by Silla Dynasty monk Wonhyo.
Silleuksa is also called the “Wall Temple” due to the multi-storied pagoda that can be found there, one of a handful of brick pagodas in the country. Housing 7 treasures and 1 tangible cultural relic, the temple is a sacred pilgrimage site. The pagoda was being restored when we visited and didn’t offer much in terms of pretty pictures, but perched alongside it is a pavilion from which you can enjoy the peace and quiet of the flowing river, giving some of the most beautiful photos that you’ll get at any temple in Korea.
STAGE 7: YEOJU TO YANGPYEONG
Start Yeoju
Finish Yangpyeong
Distance 45km
Climbing 303m
Grade Easy
Before setting off on what was hands down the easiest and most relaxing ride of our entire tour in South Korea, we spent a chunk of the morning hours wandering around Silleuksa Temple after a forgettable but filling breakfast at our hotel. Bicycles were parked right outside the entrance, and it was a short walk into the temple grounds - one of the reasons why Eka, Maya and myself opt for touring shoes with SPD cleats instead of the more popular road variety. From there it was an easy way back onto the bike lanes, and continuing on our way.
Traveling further north and heading deeper into autumn there was a definite chill in the air, and we were all bundled up to keep warm as we rode further along the river. Thermal layers were a must, gloves remained on and some of us doubled up our leg warmers so that we would not be too miserable in the cold weather. Still, the sun was out and we were cycling on protected paths free from cars, so we enjoyed the ride for what it was.
By the halfway mark we’d reached a restaurant that served the local specialty called naengmyeon, buckwheat noodles served with icy cold dongchimi broth. Why on earth this is traditionally served during the harsh winter season I cannot explain, but apparently it has now become popular in summer too. Culturally, mul naengmyeon and its sister dish bibim naengmyeon with the red spicy sauce are very significant; both became popular because of Korean War refugees who fled from the North. After coffee and dessert at a charming (and warm!) cafe nearby, we set off once again.
We picked up the pace as the day grew even colder in the afternoon, giving us a greater urgency to finish the ride before it got too late. We eventually reached Yangpyeong by sunset and still only found our riverside hotel after dark thanks to several wrong turns. Initially planning to ride across the river to dinner, the temperature had finally dropped below 10c and this changed our minds pretty fast. We opted for spicy fish stew 200m away from the hotel, before dessert and tea afterwards at a neighbouring cafe. Later, we each took a dip in the warm jacuzzi in our room, then sank into bed gratefully.
STAGE 8: YANGPYEONG TO SEOUL
Start Yangpyeong
Finish Seoul
Distance 66km
Climbing 662m
Grade Easy
Our last day on tour was a fairly easy ride, but the bitter cold from the night before continued into the morning with a heavy mist covering the riverside, and we delayed our start to wait for the sun. Once temperatures went back up to double digits we set off, bundled up again like the previous day and only shed layers once we were properly warmed up. Breakfast was a quick bite on the go at a 7Eleven approximately 8km into the ride, and we were soon riding along the quiet bike lane once again, reaching a popular cyclist hangout spot by the 13km mark.
By then much closer to Seoul, it was soon apparent that this stretch was a regular training route for the road cyclists based in the city, with many lycra clad groups out in full force and at impressive speeds. This was undoubtedly yet another beautiful stretch of the bike lane, zipping in and out of tunnels punched into the hillside, with stunning views of the river to our left whenever we were out in the open, and the sunlight streaming in between the autumn leaves along the bike lane. There were many tourist groups out for a ride too, since bike rentals were available at many spots.
We’d reached the outskirts of Seoul around the halfway point, so Paris Baguette was easily accessible around 42km into our route and a short diversion off the bike lanes, and we had a fairly quick lunch before resuming our journey. By then the cityscape was visible on the other side of the river, but it became impossible not to slow our pace due to the headwinds along the bike lane. If sailing is in full swing on windswept waters less than 1km away, you KNOW cycling there won’t be easy!
Cycling lanes continued along the riverside through Seoul, and we exited with 10km to go near a busy wholesale area similar to Jalan Pasar in Kuala Lumpur, with narrow streets and many cars. We’d made good time despite a later than expected start though, and we reached the city’s majestic Gwanghwamun Gates perfectly timed for golden hour. These are the main and largest gates to Gyeongbokgung Palace, and since it was closing time, many hanbok clad (and normally dressed) visitors were heading out. After the obligatory photo stop, we reached our accommodation for the next few days in Seoul and a truly welcome sight after 700km+, the absolutely awesome Cheong Yeon Jae Hanok Hotel.
After checking in we were ushered to our room, which was warming up nicely thanks to a modern digital version of the ondol/gudeul underfloor heating system, a Korean architectural feature we were infinitely grateful for as the days got colder. Once all cleaned up, our reward for the tour was another steaming dish of Jjimdak just a short walk away. It was a fitting end to the journey, and we gobbled it up within half an hour before returning home to pass out in our cosy room at the hanok.
The Hanok experience at Cheong Yeon Jae Hanok Hotel
After a sad, sad end to our journey along the Shimanami Kaido after our tour in Shikoku, Japan last year (only hilarious in retrospect now), we quickly realised that it is never a bad idea to treat yourself after a long and exhausting multi-day ride. With this in mind, we decided not to skimp on our final accommodation for the trip, and Eka booked us into the Cheong Yeon Jae Hanok Hotel, which was traditional but had all the modern trappings like hot water and a bathroom attached to your room rather than an outhouse like in the old days.
The place is managed by a team of lovely ladies (Hyoji, Suri and one more at night who we didn’t meet properly), all who speak English and welcomed us warmly with tea and snacks. Our suitcases that were sent over by post in Cycling Busan to Seoul - Part 1 had arrived almost a week before us, and were waiting patiently in the compound for us to arrive. It was an infinitely better way to end our physically and mentally taxing cycling tour, in a heritage home that dates back around 80 years.
In addition to our welcome tea and snacks set, we could also look forward to a lovely breakfast every morning. Hyoji and Suri were great hosts, giving us recommendations and were just plain friendly and helpful for whatever we needed help with. Also included in the package was the chance to try the hanbok traditional dress, something that we didn’t expect and an experience you would have to pay for anywhere else. We definitely learnt a nice bit about the Korean cultural heritage and current issues during our stay.
Seoul
The focus of our trip was mostly our tour in the Korean countryside, so I have to admit that not much cycling was done within Seoul itself. Before anything else, we spent our first real rest day meeting up with Sogon Yoon, Founder and Chief Editor of Far Ride Magazine. We spent the afternoon chatting with him about cycling, travel, the state of the publishing world, how Far Ride came to being, and much, much more.
Besides a delicious Korean beef barbecue, splendid coffee from a cafe with a resident cat and mind-blowingly creamy macaroons in the park, this was easily one of the highlights of our trip and one of the few fangirl moments I have ever had in my life. If you don’t know who Farride are, I don’t think we can be friends. Just kidding. But seriously they’re awesome, and it was a great honour to actually meet Sogon in the flesh.
We also had some touristy sightseeing planned, considering it was our first time in the city. Eka had picked Cheong Yeon Jae Hanok Hotel so we’d be close to the Bukchon Hanok Village, the iconic Gwanghwamun Gates and the Gyeongbokgung Palace within, and anywhere else would be accessible as long as a train station was nearby, which it was. The capital city definitely teased us with infinite possibilities, leaving us always wanting more.
Ideally, it would have been great if we had a few extra days to spend in Seoul as there is so much to explore. With ultra modern urban living juxtaposed against history and heritage spanning across multiple centuries, Seoul deserves a dedicated trip on its own. With that said, we will certainly be back to explore this beautiful metropolis much more thoroughly.
If you missed the rest of the journey, you can start from the beginning at Cycling Busan to Seoul, South Korea - Part 1
If you enjoyed reading about our South Korean bike tour, do check out these other cycling journeys that might also tickle your fancy.
Cycling Spain’s Andalucia 2017
Cycling Taiwan’s East Rift Valley, Jiufen and Houtong 2019
Cycling Shikoku, Japan 2.0 2022
Cycling Northeast Taiwan 2023
We also have a number of domestic tours if you’re looking for ideas to travel in Malaysia:
Cycling Malaysia’s West Coast from Klang to Pangkor Island
